Pulao vs. Biryani: Chef Kunal Kapur decodes the distinction between the two

In the intricate tapestry of South Asian cuisine, few dishes command as much reverence as pulao and biryani. These rice-based delicacies, beloved for their rich flavours and aromatic spices, hold a special place in the hearts and palates of millions.

Yet, despite their apparent similarities, a stark culinary divide separates them.

To understand the difference between pulao and biryani, chef Kunal Kapur delved into their origins, lineage, and preparation styles.

Chef Kapur noted that while pulao and biryani are both rice dishes cooked using the ‘dum’ method (sealing the vessel and applying heat from top and bottom), there are differences that completely separate them.

One common notion is that pulao or pulav is an Indian dish; however, chef Kapur pointed out that it was first made in Central Asia, specifically modern-day Baghdad. ‘That too with meat,’ he added.

From there, pulao spread as far as India and Europe. ‘When this meat pulao or yakhni pulao came to India, different types of spices were added to it,’ Chef Kapur explained.

Taking inspiration from this pulao, biryani was made in India for the first time. According to historian Lizzie Collingham, modern-day biryani developed in the royal kitchens of the Mughal Empire. ‘It is a mix of the native spicy dishes of India and the Persian pilaf (pulao),’ she noted in her book, Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors.